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LumenPnP Semi Assembly

These are assembly instructions for the Semi-Assembled LumenPnP. If you’re looking for the instructions for the “BYOP” bring-your-own-printer kit, you can find them here.

What is the LumenPnP?

The LumenPnP is an open source Pick and Place project led by Opulo. The LumenPnP is designed to be low cost and suited towards mid-scale manufacturing.

hero image of LumenPnP

The LumenPnP is an ongoing project. The current version, V3, uses strip feeders and can reliably place components as small as 0603. Opulo is working on active, powered feeders and reliable placement of 0402 components.

The LumenPnP is completely open source and has an active community with ongoing mechanical, electrical, and software modifications.

It is completely open source and hackable. The main controller has three AUX ports, allowing anyone to add on peripherals or communicate with other machines.

Before you begin

Machine Orientation and Terminology

Throughout this guide we’ll be referring to different orientations and directions of the machine as “left, right, front, back, up, and down.” In general, these words are in reference to the typical view of the machine, facing it directly, as shown below.

hero image of LumenPnP

We’ll also refer to putting the machine “back on its haunches.” This refers to a feature of the LumenPnP where it can be lifted up by the front rail and let to rest upright on its back feet. This orientation is tremendously helpful for installing things to the staging plate and plugging things into the motherboard. Whenever putting your machine back, make sure the Y gantry is pushed all the way to the back of the machine to prevent backdriving the Y stepper motor driver.


If you find that there’s something unclear in this documentation, please submit a ticket on Github about it! You can also file an issue using the link in the upper right of any page on this site. We’re trying to make this as clear and understandable as possible, so every issue you tag helps us make it better for everyone else. You can also check out the Discord server and ask questions to the community.


Dont worry if something in the video doesnt look exactly like what you have in the box. We’re constantly tuning and tweaking things to make them better and easier to use, so you might find things look slightly different.

Assembly Video

We have an instructional video that walks you through the process of assembling your LumenPnP. This video is just to help visualize how parts go together; you’ll still need this guide to complete your build. You can find the video embedded below:


Expect assembly to take about 50 minutes.

You’ll Need

  • Your packaged Semi-Assembled LumenPnP
  • A clear tabletop for assembly
  • A computer
  • The ability to plug in three high-bandwidth USB-A ports - Your computer will need to communicate with both the data stream that controls the machine, along with two webcam feeds. It might be possible to handle all of this data through one USB port on your computer with an external USB hub, but you might find you need to plug into a few different ports on your computer, depending on the hardware you have.

Next steps

Let’s dive in! The first step is unboxing your machine.

1 - Unboxing

Unboxing your LumenPnP
  1. First, take a look at what’s in the box! The first thing you’ll see when you open the package is the getting started card. This card has your machine’s version number on it. Make sure your version number begins with v3.

  1. Remove the top protective layer of foam revealing the first tray of components. This tray contains:
    • Staging plate
    • Build plate
    • Cable chain assembly
    • Cable chain frame mount
    • IEC power cable
    • Front rail
    • Back rail
  1. Grab the foam as shown below, rotate the tray up, then pull it out and set it aside, revealing the second tray of parts.

  1. The second tray contains the following parts:
    • Left and right leg assemblies
    • X gantry assembly
    • Feet for the build and staging plates
    • Power supply
    • Getting started kit
    • Tool bag
  1. Open up the tool bag. Inside, you’ll find the following items:
    • Hobby knife
    • Flush snips
    • 135 degree tweezers
    • Allen wrench set
    • Small Phillips screwdriver
    • Alignment bracket
    • Bottom camera cable
    • ESD wrist strap
    • USB-A to USB-B cable
    • Hardware bag
    • Zip ties

Alright, let’s move on to assembling the frame.

2 - Assembling Frame

Assembling the Frame

In this step, you will assemble the main frame of the machine.

  1. Remove the left and right leg assemblies from the second tray.

  2. Remove the two aluminum rails from underneath the cable chain in the first tray.

  3. Remove the X gantry assembly from the second tray.

  4. Stand the left and right leg assemblies upright on the tabletop as shown below. The left leg assembly has a cable harness labeled Y1, and the tensioner arm pivot is on the left. The right leg assembly has a cable harness labeled Y2 and the tensioner arm pivot is on the right. Check the photos below for reference.

  1. Remove two M5x10mm socket head screws and two t-slot nuts from your hardware bag.

  2. Insert one of the M5x10mm screws into the front left leg as shown.

  1. Attach a t-slot nut onto the screw. Make sure that the nut is oriented vertically as shown in the images below.

  2. Find your front rail. This is one of the two aluminum extrusions you removed from the packaging earlier. It only has one right-angle bracket attached to each side instead of two.

  1. Align the front rail and left leg subassembly as shown in the image below. Make sure that the rotation of the t-slot nut in the front rail matches with the image as well. It should be perpendicular to the axis of the front rail.

  2. Rotate the front rail upward as shown in the pictures below. Make sure the t-slot nut in the bracket on the front rail fits inside the bottom extrusion of the left leg subassembly. The front rail and right angle bracket should sit flush against the extrusion.

  1. Slide the front rail into the front left leg. Make sure it’s completely pushed into the leg with no gaps. Tighten the two screws shown below to hold the front rail in place.

  1. Attach the remaining M5x10mm socket head and t-slot nut into the front right leg in the same way as you did for the front left leg.

  1. Place the front and right leg subassemblies upright as shown in the image below.
  1. Ensure the t-slot nut on right side of the front rail is oriented as shown below. Lift the front rail up into the bottom extrusion of the right leg subassembly, and slide it towards you into the front right leg as shown. Tighten the front screw in place.

  1. Lift up the machine onto its back legs, and tighten in the final loose screw.

  1. Find the back rail. This is the remaining aluminum extrusion that you removed from the first tray. It should have two right angle brackets on each side. Align the t-slot nuts perpendicular to the rail as shown in the image below. Do this for both sides.

  1. Place the back rail across the back legs as shown. Rotate it upwards into the bottom extrusion of the left leg subassembly, ensuring that both t-slot nuts fit into the v-slot. It should be flush against the rail.

  2. Make sure that the right side of the back rail has fit into the right leg extrusion. You might find that the back legs need to be pulled together or apart a little in order to get them to fit; this is ok. The back rail should be flush with the extrusion if the t-slot nuts have been inserted into the extrusion correctly.

  1. Slide the back rail up and let the left side of it rest on the spacing bracket included in your tool kit. Make sure it’s resting on the short side (50mm). Lightly tighten the top screw on the left side, making sure to keep the end of the extrusion and right angle brackets perfectly flush with the side of the extrusion.

  1. Use the bracket to set the spacing on the right side, and tighten both screws into place. Make sure the right angle brackets are perfectly flush with the right side extrusion as well. Go back to the left side and tighten the bottom screw.

  1. Bring your machine back down onto four legs and get the X gantry assembly (shown below).

  2. Slide both Y gantries to the back of the machine (opposite the tension arms), and drop the X gantry assembly onto them as shown. Make sure the toolhead motors are facing you like the image below.

  1. Attach the X gantry to the Y gantries by tightening four M5x40 socket head screws found in your hardware bag into the two holes on each side of the X gantry assembly.

  1. Your machine frame is done!

Time to move on to mounting the staging plates.

3 - Mounting Staging Plates

Mounting the Staging and Build Plates to the Frame

In this step, you will mount the Staging Plate and Build Plate to the machine’s frame.

  1. Remove the staging plate and build plate from the first tray. The staging plate has the motherboard, camera, pumps, valves, wiring, and tubing mounted on it. The build plate is bare.

  1. Get 8x M5x8mm button head screws and 8x t-slot nuts from your hardware bag.
  1. Insert the button head screws through the large holes in the four corners of each plate. Make sure you are inserting them from the side of the plate that has the description text as shown, and not from the side with the Opulo logo. Loosely thread a t-slot nut onto the opposite side of each screw.

  1. Place the staging plate into the machine as shown below. Have it rest on the lower of the two extrusions in each leg assembly. Make sure the staging plate’s orientation matches the images below.

  1. Make sure that the staging plate is sitting flush on the extrusions. The t-slot nut should fit inside the slot in the extrusion.

  1. Grab the alignment bracket that you used earlier.
  1. Place the bracket along the front rail with the long side pointing away from you. Arrange the staging plate so that it is flat against the bracket.

  1. While ensuring that the flat edge of the staging is flush against the side of the extrusion, tighten the screw closest to the front of the machine. Don’t tighten the back one just yet.

  1. Move the alignment bracket to the right side, and while ensuring the staging plate is right up against it, tighten both screws on the right side.

  1. Tighten the second screw on the left side of the machine.
  1. Place the build plate onto the same rail as the staging plate. Ensure the t-slot nuts are fully inserted into the extrusion.

  1. Slide the build plate flush against the staging plate, and tighten all four screws.
  1. Lift the machine up onto its back legs.

  1. Grab the build plate foot from the second tray, and unscrew the screw in the print.

  1. Mount the build plate foot in the center of the circle cutout, right beneath the goblin icon. Tighten the screw you removed earlier in from the top side to secure it in place.

The plates are fully mounted! Time to move on to wiring.

4 - Wiring

Wiring the machine

In this step, you will mount and connect all the wiring and pneumatic tubing.

  1. Find the front-drag-chain-mount print in the first tray, and grab an M5x25mm and M5x16mm socket head screw from the hardware bag.
  1. Place the front-drag-chain-mount on top of the front left leg as shown.
  1. Insert the screws through the print into the front left leg, with the M5x25mm screw on the bottom, and the M5x16mm screw on top.

  1. Grab the cable harness from the first tray. One side of the cable chain will have shorter wires, and the other will have longer wires with a print zip tied to it. Place your harness as shown in the image below.
  1. Check the clip holding the cable that exits the cable chain part way through. If it has popped out during shipping, press it back into place.

  1. Lift up the harness and place it onto your machine as shown below. Place the side of the cable chain with the longer wires on the ledge in the front-drag-chain-mount. It can help to pull your Y gantries forward to give the right side of the harness a place to rest for the next few steps.

  1. Screw two M5x10mm socket head screws through the mounting holes in the cable chain and into the front-drag-chain-mount. If you notice that a cable chain clip pops out at any point, it can easily be pressed right back into place.

  1. Your machine should now look like the image below.
  1. On the other side of the cable chain, you’ll notice two wires are sticking out of the back of the chain. Pull these out of the way as shown, and mount the other side of the cable chain to the X gantry using two M5x16mm socket head screws.

  1. Look at your machine from the back. You should see the two cables you pulled aside earlier. Take the connector with four wires and plug it into the port on the back side of the camera, as shown below.
  1. Take the remaining cable on the back side of the X gantry with only three wires and plug it into the top light, as shown below.
  1. On the front side of the X gantry, take the connector with four holes but only three wires and plug it into the limit switch PCB.
  1. Take the connector with six holes and four wires and plug it into the Z motor.
  1. Grab two zip ties from the bag in your tool kit and fit them through the channels in the top side of the X gantry.

  1. Find the cable labeled LH, route it over the top of the Z motor, and secure it in place with the zip tie on the left side of the X gantry. Trim the excess zip tie.

  1. Plug the cable labeled LH into the left motor on the X gantry. This cable is inserted from the bottom.
  1. Find the cable labeled RH and secure it in place using the zip tie on the right side of the X gantry. Trim the excess zip tie.

  1. Plug the cable labeled RH into the right motor on the X gantry. This cable is inserted from the bottom.
  1. Find the two pieces of tubing labeled LH and RH, and insert LH into the left motor, and RH into the right motor. Make sure that the tubing is in between the LH and RH cable harness going to the motors as shown in the image below.

  1. Your X gantry should look like the image below.
  1. Take the print attached to the wire exiting from the middle of the cable chain, and align it with the back of the X motor as shown in the image below.
  1. Using two M5x16mm socket head screws, mount the X cable guide to the Y gantry. Then plug the cable into the X motor.

  2. Your machine should look like the image below. Lift it up onto its back legs for final wiring steps.

  1. Remove the motherboard cover by unscrewing any screws, lifting the top edge away from the board, and rotating it out from underneath the pneumatic tubing.

  1. Take the Y1 cable harness that came attached to the left leg assembly and guide it underneath the motherboard from the left side, and out through the top as shown. Plug the connector into the second port from the left and tuck any excess cabling underneath the motherboard.

  1. Using the cable clips as shown below, guide the Y2 cable harness from the right leg assembly across the top of the staging plate, under the motherboard, and out through the top. You’ll have to loosen the clips using an allen key to get the cable underneath them. Be sure to clamp them down tight so the cable doesn’t hang loosely.

  1. Plug the Y2 cable harness into the third port from the left. Tuck any excess cabling underneath the motherboard.
  1. Take a look at the bundle of cables coming from the cable chain. One cable with a USB connector will not be zip tied into the print. Move this cable out of the way for now, as we won’t be routing it with the rest of the cables.
  1. Isolate the following items from the bundle, and guide them under the motherboard from the left side, and out through the top as shown below.
    • RH tubing
    • LH tubing
    • XM cable harness
    • ZM cable harness
    • LM cable harness

  1. Plug the XM cable harness into the first port from the left (labeled “X”), plug the ZM cable harness into the fourth port from the left (labeled “Z”), and plug the LM cable harness into the port on the far left (labeled “L”).

  1. Take the two tubes left and stick them back under the motherboard, out the right side, and plug them into the pneumatic fitting that matches the label on the tubing.

  1. With the remaining three cable harness from the bundle, plug the harness labeled RM into the first port in the second row (labeled “R”), plug the harness labeled ZL into the Z Limit Switch port, and plug the harness labeled DL into the Top Light port.

  1. Tuck any excess cabling underneath the motherboard. Your machine should look like the image below.
  1. Attach the strain relief print into the bottom of the bottom rail in the left leg assembly.
  1. Fit the cover back onto the motherboard by rotating it underneath the pneumatic tubing, and pressing down around the stepper driver pins and heatsinks. Remount using the hardware it was originally mounted with.

  1. Grab the USB <-> 4 pin connector cable from your tool bag, and plug the 4 pin connector into the back of the bottom camera. Attach the cable to the bottom camera mount using a zip tie and snip off the excess.

  1. Find the staging plate foot from the second tray, and press fit it onto the bottom camera mount, taking care to align the cutout with the bottom camera cable.

  1. Route the USB cable underneath the motherboard.

  1. Plug the power supply into a wall outlet, and plug the barrel jack into the port in the upper-right corner of the motherboard. You should see a light come on underneath the cover.

  2. Plug the USB-B cable located in your toolbag into the USB port on the bottom-left corner of the motherboard.

  3. Lower your machine down onto all four legs.

  4. Plug the three USB cables coming from your machine into your computer. Depending on your computer’s hardware, you might need to plug these all into separate USB ports on your computer and not use an external hub. We’ll cover more about this later during calibration.

  5. You’re done with your build! Time to head over to the OpenPnP section of the docs for calibration and running your first job:

OpenPnP Docs Page