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LumenPnP Kit Assembly

What is the LumenPnP?

The LumenPnP is an open source Pick and Place project led by Opulo. The LumenPnP is designed to be low cost and suited towards mid-scale manufacturing.

hero image of LumenPnP

The LumenPnP is capable of placing parts as small as 0402, with support for down to 0603. It is currently set up to use strip feeders, but development around active, powered feeders is ongoing.

It is completely open source and hackable. The main controller has three AUX ports, allowing anyone to add on peripherals or communicate with other machines.

What’s on this site?

  • How to assemble the hardware in a LumenPnP Kit
  • How to connect the electrical components in a LumenPnP Kit
  • How to complete basic calibration in OpenPnP

READ BEFORE STARTING

Referencing Source Files

As you go through this guide, you might find that you’d like to refer to the source files for a number of parts in the machine. The exported build files and source for your machine can be found on the Releases Page. Make sure to reference the same Build Number as your machine kit!

Machine Orientation and Terminology

Throughout this guide we’ll be referring to different orientations and directions of the machine as “left, right, front, back, up, and down.” In general, these words are in reference to the typical view of the machine, facing it directly, as shown below.

hero image of LumenPnP

We’ll also refer to putting the machine “back on its haunches.” This refers to a feature of the LumenPnP where it can be lifted up by the front rail and let to rest upright on its back feet. This orientation is tremendously helpful for installing things to the staging plate and plugging things into the motherboard. Whenever putting your machine back, make sure the Y gantry is pushed all the way to the back of the machine to prevent backdriving the Y stepper motor driver. An image of this orientation is below.

Help

If you find that there’s something unclear in this documentation, please submit a ticket on Github about it! Select the “Index Documentation Issue” template. You can also file an issue using the link in the upper right of any page on this site. We’re trying to make this as clear and understandable as possible, so every issue you tag helps us make it better for everyone else. You can also check out the Discord server and ask questions to the community.

Timing

Expect assembly to take about eight hours provided all parts are printed and ready to use.

Tools Needed

  • M2 Allen Wrench (Long, ball-end)
  • M2.5 Allen Wrench (Long, ball-end)
  • M3 Allen Wrench (Long, ball-end)
  • M4 Allen Wrench (Long, ball-end)
  • Small Phillips Screwdriver
  • Small Flathead Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • Needle-nose Pliers
  • Mallet
  • Flush Cutters
  • Wire Stripper
  • Measuring Tape
  • Calipers
  • Hot Air

Next steps

Let’s dive in! The first step is mechanical assembly.

1 - Mechanical Assembly

Assembling the frame of the LumenPnP

This section is about building the mechanical frame of the machine. Bolting prints and extrusion together, getting motion systems set up, and adjusting roller and belt tension.

Make sure you have all your tools at the ready, and let’s get going.

1.1 - Printing Parts

Printing all the parts necessary for the build

Getting The Part Models

Alright, time to get the parts we need to print! You can find the parts you need on the Releases Page, and look at the attached Assets at the bottom of the release. Click and download both LumenPnP-STLs and LumenPnP-BOM to get the STL files and BOM for your machine.

Printer Requirements

These parts are designed to fit onto a printer with a build volume of at least 18 x 18 x 18 cm, such as the Prusa MINI. Although not recommended, it’s possible to print the parts on a smaller printer with some creative placements.

Additionally these parts are designed for printers with a 0.4mm nozzle. Using a larger nozzle diameter can result in some features not resolving correctly, or parts not fitting as designed.

Material

These parts are designed for PLA, however, some folks have printed the parts successfully with PETG. You’ll need about 1 kg of the primary filament.

There are three situations where you’ll need specific filament colors:

  • White or transparent filament for the light mounts, top-light-mount and bottom-light-mount. These parts act as light diffusers for the ring lights.
  • White or light colored filament for the nozzle-rack. This helps with setting up the automatic tool changer.
  • A darker filament for the Z gantries, z-gantry-left and z-gantry-right. This helps the bottom camera distinguish the nozzle tip from the rest of the gantry. If you print in a lighter color anyway you can use a bit of blue painter’s table on the bottom side of the gantry.

There are two different print setting profiles you’ll need for printing the parts. We use PrusaSlicer’s setting names, but you should be able to adapt them if you use a different slicer. Every printer is a little different, but these settings should be a reasonable starting point. You can tune them as needed once you print the calibration print in the next step.

Default Settings

These settings are used for the majority of the parts:

Gantry Settings

These settings are used for parts that require more strength:

Use gantry settings for the following parts:

  • y-gantry
  • y-gantry-support
  • roller-spacer
  • x-gantry-front
  • x-gantry-back
  • x-idler-mount
  • z-gantry-left
  • z-gantry-right

Calibration Print

Before printing the parts, print the calibration part. This part contains every feature- screw holes, nut slots, extrusion profiles, etc.- used in the printable parts. Printing this first ensures your printer calibration and print settings are correct.

Corndog

This is the calibration print, colloquially referred to as “the corndog.". This part isn’t currently included in the exported STLs, so grab it from the link above.

After printing, you can check fit of various fasteners and one of the aluminum extrusions to ensure the parts you print will all fit as expected:

  • Check that M3 and M5 bolts fit through their counter-sunk holes.
  • Check that M3 and M5 nuts fit in both hexagonal voids and vertical nut slots.
  • Check that M3 and M5 bolts can be self-tap through the two holes inside the lock icon. They should take some effort, but they should grip well into the print.
  • Check that the 20 x 20 mm aluminum extrusion fits into the square hole.

Once you’re happy with the fit you can start printing the parts.

Printing The Parts

All 3D printed parts

You can find out how many of each part to print in the LumenPnP-BOM zip file you downloaded in the first step. After unzipping, open the HTML file in your browser to see the machine’s Bill of Materials.

The “Part Name” column will tell you which part to print and the “Quantity” column will tell you how many to print. There’s a rendered image of each 3D printed part as well to help identify them. Just print the parts that have the “Part Type” of “FDM”. The other items in this table are a list of all the other fasteners, hardware, and off the shelf parts used in the machine’s mechanical build- all of these have been provided in the kit.

The 3d models are already in the preferred orientation for printing, so you only need to make sure they’re placed within the build volume when slicing.

Optional Parts

There are some parts in the Bill of Materials page that are highlighted and flagged as optional. These prints are not necessary to print - feel free to print them if you think they’ll be useful for you, but they aren’t required for building the machine. There are notes in the BOM about what extra parts and steps are necessary to use them.

Next steps

Start by assembling the belt tensioners.

1.2 - Belt Tensioners

Assembling the belt tensioners used throughout the machine

Alright, time to get into the build! First, we’re going to build the belt tensioners that are used for the X and Y axes. You need to build three of these.

QtyPart
1 each, 3 totalM3 Hex Nut
1 each, 3 totalM3x16 machine screw
1 each, 3 totalM3 Cap Nut
1 each, 3 totalM5x25 machine screw
1 each, 3 totalM5 Nyloc Hex Nut
1 each, 3 totalM5x40 machine screw
1 each, 3 totalM5 Hex Nut
1 each, 3 totalGT2 Pulley Idler
1 each, 3 totalFDM-0037 (Belt Tension Arm)
1FDM-0001 (Front Left Leg)
1FDM-0002 (Front Right Leg)
1FDM-0013 (X Idler Mount)

Assembling the Belt Tensioner Arms

Belt Tension Arm Parts
  1. Insert an M3 Hex Nut into its slot on the back of a Belt Tension Arm.

    Inserted M3 Hex Nut

  2. Insert an M3x16mm Machine Screw through the front hole in the Belt Tension Arm and then tighten.

    M3 Screw and M3 Hex Nut installed

  3. Thread an M3 Cap Nut on the end of the M3x16mm Machine Screw.

    M3 Screw, M3 Nut, and M3 Cap Nut installed

  4. Insert an M5x25mm Machine Screw through the hole in the top of the Belt Tension Arm so that it passes through a GT2 Pulley Idler.

    M5 screw and GT2 Pulley Idler positioned

  5. Add an M5 Nyloc Hex Nut on the bottom of the Belt Tension Arm and tighten. Make sure the idler can still spin freely.

    M5 Screw, GT2 Idler Pulley, and M5 Nut installed

  6. Repeat this two more times so that you have a total of three arms.

Attaching a tensioner to the left side

Now you’ll attach the first tensioner to the Front Left Leg:

  1. Insert an M5 Nyloc Hex Nut into the recess for a hex nut on the bottom of one of the idler mount arms on the Front Left Leg.

    M5 Nyloc Hed Nut positioned in Front Left Leg

  2. Insert a completed Belt Tension Arm assembly between the arms on the Front Left Leg, with the screw head of the M5x25mm facing up.

    Belt Tensioner Arm

  3. Insert an M5x40mm Machine Screw through the hole in the top so that it passes through the Belt Tension Arm and tightens into the M5 Nyloc Hex Nut. Do not over-tighten, and ensure you can still pivot the tension arm.

    M5x40mm screw inserted into Idler and Belt Tensioner Arm
    Idler and Belt Tension Arm installed on Leg

Attaching a tensioner to the right side

Next, attach the second tensioner the the Front Right Leg. This is nearly identical to the first one:

  1. Insert the M5 Nyloc Hex Nut into the recess for a hex nut on the bottom of one of the idler mount arms on the Front Right Leg.

    M5 Nyloc Hed Nut positioned in Front Left Leg

  2. Insert a completed Belt Tension Arm assembly between the arms on the Front Right Leg, with the screw head of the M5x25mm facing up.

    Belt Tensioner Arm

  3. Insert the M5x40mm Machine Screw through the hole in the top so that it passes through the Belt Tension Arm and tighten into the M5 Nyloc Hex Nut. Do not over-tighten, and ensure you can still pivot the tension arm.

    M5x40mm screw inserted into Idler and Belt Tensioner Arm
    Idler and Belt Tension Arm installed on Leg

Attaching a tensioner to the X idler mount

The third and final tensioner is attached to the X Idler Mount. This is only slightly different from the previous two:

  1. Insert the M5 Nyloc hex nut into the recess on the bottom of the X Idler Mount.

    Nyloc hex nut installed on the X Idler Mount

  2. Insert the completed Belt Tension Arm into its slot in the X Idler Mount.

    Belt Tension Arm inserted into Idler Mount

  3. Insert the M5x40mm machine screw through the hole in the top of the X Idler Mount so that it passes through the Belt Tension Arm and tightens into the Nyloc Hex Nut. Do not over-tighten, and ensure you can still pivot the Belt Tension Arm.

    Completed Belt Tension Arm installed in Idler Mount
    Completed Belt Tension Arm installed in Idler Mount

Next steps

Now that all the tensioners are in the right place, continue with assembling the left side.

1.3 - Left Side

Assembling the left side of the machine

Now that the belt tensioner arms are assembled and attached, it’s time to start working on the frame. You’ll start by assembling the left side of the machine as seen from the front:

The machine shown from the front

Assembly

QtyPart
1FDM-0001 (Front Left Leg)
1FDM-0003 (Back Left Leg)
2Aluminum extrusions
6M5 T-slot nut
6M5x10 machine screw
1NEMA17 Stepper motor
1GT2 Pulley (with grub screws)
6M3x8 machine screw
1Limit switch PCB
2M5x25 machine screw
1FDM-0007 (Frame Umbilical Mount)
1FDM-0046 (Umbilical Swivel Part 1)
1FDM-0047 (Umbilical Swivel Part 2)
1M5x40 machine screw
  1. Take the Front Left Leg and insert the v-slot extrusions into the two square holes designed to take this part. Ensure that the extrusion comes to the end of the holes in which they’re inserted. If you have a hard time getting the extrusion into the slots, gently slide them into place using some taps from a mallet.

    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Front Left Leg

  2. Take the Back Left Leg and place it onto two v-slot extrusions at the end opposite the Front Left Leg. Your progress should look like the image below.

    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Back Left Leg
    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Front Left Leg Result 2

  3. On the top rail, drop in and position a slot nut underneath the hole in the top of each leg and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into the nut.

    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the top of the Front Left Leg
    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the top of the Back Left Leg
    Top screws securing V-slot Extrusions

  4. On the bottom rail, the outer side has three exposed holes for machine screws (one on the Back Left Leg, two on the Front Left Leg). For each, drop in and position a slot nut under it and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into it.

    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Side of the Front Left Leg
    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Side of the Back Left Leg
    All three screw locations for securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Front Left Leg and the Back Left Leg

  5. On the bottom rail, the inner side has one exposed hole for a machine screw on the Back Left Leg. Drop in and position a slot nut under it and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into it.

    Securing the Bottom V-slot Extrusion to the top of the Back Left Leg
    Securing the Bottom V-slot Extrusion to the top of the Back Left Leg alternate view

  6. Slide the GT2 Pulley onto the the motor shaft of a NEMA17 stepper motor with the set screw side facing the motor body. Align the pulley so that the end is roughly flush with the end of motor shaft, then tighten one of the set screws on the pulley into the flat side of the motor shaft. Tighten the second set screw as well.

    Attaching the GT2 Timing Pulley to the NEMA17 stepper motor

  7. Mount the NEMA17 stepper motor to the Back Left Leg. Attach it using four M3x8mm screws, ensuring that the connector is facing inwards towards the zip tie loops as dictated in the picture.

    Mounting the Left Y-axis NEMA17 stepper motor to the Back Left Leg
    Orienting Left Y-axis NEMA17 stepper motor with the connector facing inwards

  8. Mount one of the three limit switches to the Front Left Leg as shown in the image. Use two M3x8mm screws and tap them directly into the print.

    Attaching the Y-axis limit switch

  9. Next, we’ll mount the Frame Umbilical Mount. Using two M5x25mm screws, attach it to the Front Left Leg as shown, threading directly into the part.

    Attaching the Frame Umbilical Mount to the Front Left Leg

  10. Lastly, we’ll assemble the umbilical swivel. Swivel Part 1 and Swivel Part 2 fit together as shown below, and are secured in place with a M5x40mm screw and an M5 nut. Tighten so there’s no play in the fit, but the two parts can swivel easily. This part helps keep the X gantry umbilical suspended over the build area. Set it aside for now.

Next steps

Continue to assembling the right side.

1.4 - Right Side

Assembly of the right side of the machine

Great! Now lets make the right side. Very similar to the left, just a couple small changes. Remember that we’re referring to the right side of the machine as seen from the front:

The machine shown from the front

Assembly

QtyPart
1FDM-0002 (Front Right Leg)
1FDM-0004 (Back Right Leg)
2Aluminum extrusion
6M5 T-slot nut
6M5x10 machine screw
1NEMA17 stepper motor
1GT2 Pulley (with grub screws)
4M3x8 machine screw
  1. Take the Front Right Leg and insert the v-slot extrusions into the two square holes designed to take this part. Ensure that the extrusion comes to the end of the holes in which they’re inserted. If you have a hard time getting the extrusion into the slots, gently slide them into place using some taps from a mallet.

    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Front Right Leg

  2. Take the Back Right Leg and place it onto the two v-slot extrusions at the end opposite the Front Right Leg. Your progress should look like the image below.

    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Back Right Leg
    Inserting the V-slot Extrusions into the Front Right Leg result 2

  3. On the top rail, drop in and position a slot nut underneath the hole in the top of each leg and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into the nut.

    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the top of the Front Right Leg
    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the top of the Back Right Leg
    Location for the top screws

  4. On the bottom rail, the outer side has three exposed holes for machine screws (one on the Back Right Leg, two on the Front Right Leg). For each, drop in and position a slot nut under it and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into it.

    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Side of the Front Right Leg
    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Side of the Back Right Leg
    Location for screws on the outer side

  5. On the bottom rail, the inner side has one exposed hole for a machine screw on the Back Right Leg. Drop in and position a slot nut under it and screw a M5x10mm machine screw into it.

    Securing the V-slot Extrusions to the Side of the Back Right Leg
    Location for the inner screw

  6. Slide the GT2 Pulley onto the the motor shaft of a NEMA17 stepper motor with the set screw side facing the motor body. Align the pulley so that the end is roughly flush with the end of motor shaft, then tighten one of the set screws on the pulley into the flat side of the motor shaft. Tighten the second set screw as well.

    Attaching the GT2 Timing Pulley to the NEMA17 stepper motor

  7. Mount the NEMA17 stepper motor to the Back Right Leg with four M3x8mm screws, ensuring that the connector is facing inwards towards the zip tie loops as dictated in the picture.

    Mounting the Right Y-axis NEMA17 stepper motor to the Back Right Leg
    Orienting Right Y-axis NEMA17 stepper motor with the connector facing inwards

Next steps

Continue to connecting the two sides together.

1.5 - Connecting the Sides

Attaching the left and right sides of the machine together

Now we’re going to combine the left and right side together using two aluminum extrusions, and the staging plate.

QtyPart
2Aluminum extrusion
16M5 T-slot nut
4M5x10 machine screw
12M5x8 machine screw
62020 Corner Bracket
1FDM-0022 (Umbilical Guide)
  1. Insert a new v-slot extrusion (in green below) into the Front Left Leg underneath the bottom rail.

    Insert V-slot extrusion into Front Left and Right Feet overview
    Insert V-slot extrusion into Front Left Foot
    Insert V-slot extrusion into Front Right Foot
    Insert V-Slot Into Frame

  2. Drop in and position a slot nut underneath the hole and use a M5x10mm machine screw to fasten the v-slot extrusion to the Front Left Leg.

    Use a M5x10mm screw to attach the cross piece to the Front Left Leg

  3. Drop in and position a slot nut underneath the hole and use a M5x10mm machine screw to fasten the v-slot extrusion to the Front Right Leg.

    Use a M5x10mm screw to attach the cross piece to the Front Right Leg

  4. Attach one of the included metal 2020 corner bracket to the 20x20 V-Slot on the left side using two slot nuts and two M5x8mm screws.

    Attach a 2020 corner bracket on the left side

  5. Attach a 2020 corner bracket to the 20x20 V-Slot on the right side using two slot nuts and two M5x8mm screws.

    Attach a 2020 corner bracket on the right side

  6. Fasten the Umbilical Guide on the bottom side of the bottom rail of the left side in place using two M5x10mm screws and two slot nuts.

    Fasten the umbilical guide with M5x10mm screws

  7. Affix a 2020 corner bracket to the end of another V-slot using the a slot nut and an M5x8mm screw. Make sure the side of the bracket is perfectly flush with the end of the extrusion. It helps to tighten it in place against a flat surface.

    Attach a 2020 corner bracket to the v-slot extrusion

  8. Repeat the previous step three times to install three more braces in the orientation shown below. This is the back rail.

    Attach 3 more 2020 corner brackets to the v-slot extrusion

  9. Flip the machine upside down. Using four M5x8mm screws and four slot nuts, fasten the back rail to the left and right sides of the machine as shown below. Make sure that the ends of the back rail are perfectly flush with the sides of the extrusion on the left and right sides. This will help keep the machine square. The brackets do not need to be touching the printed feet.

    Fasten the rear brace using two M5x8mm screws overview
    Fasten the rear brace using two M5x8mm screws Left view
    Fasten the rear brace using two M5x8mm screws Right view
    Fasten the rear brace using two M5x8mm screws Bottom view

Next steps

Continue to assembling the Y Gantry.

1.6 - Y Gantry Assembly

Assembling the Y Gantry

It’s time to get going on the Y gantry. This is what moves the toolhead forward and back, and also carries the X gantry as well. We’ve got a few sub-assemblies in this one, so let’s dive in!

X Motor Mount Sub-Assembly

QtyPart
1NEMA17 stepper motor
1GT2 Pulley (with grub screws)
1FDM-0006 (X Motor Mount)
4M3x8 machine screw
  1. Slide the GT2 Pulley onto the the motor shaft of a NEMA17 stepper motor with the set screw side facing the motor body. Align the pulley so that the end is roughly flush with the end of motor shaft, then tighten one of the set screws on the pulley into the flat side of the motor shaft. Tighten the second set screw as well.

    Set screws holding the GT2 Pulley on the stepper motor

  2. Place the motor onto the X Motor Mount with the wires exiting the motor on the left side of the mount.

    Orient the motor connector to the left of the X Motor Mount

  3. Mount the NEMA17 stepper motor to the X Motor Mount with four M3x8mm screws. Again, check that the connector is facing towards the left side of the mount.

    Screw in the motor and double-check its orientation

Y Gantry Sub-Assemblies

Note: You will need to build two identical Y Gantry Sub-Assemblies. You can build them one at a time, or in parallel, step by step.

QtyParts
1FDM-0005 (Y Gantry)
1FDM-0008 (Y Gantry Support)
10M5 Hex Nut
2M3 Hex Nut
2M3x16 machine screw
2M5x40 machine screw
2V-Slot roller wheel
  1. Insert eight M5 hex nuts into the slots indicated below on one of the Y Gantries.

    M5 hex nut locations on the Y Gantry

  2. Ensure each hex nut is fully seated into their slot. It may be helpful to pull the hex nuts fully into location by screwing a M5x10mm machine screw into them from the opposite side of the Y Gantry. Afterwards, remove the screw.

  3. Insert a M3 Hex Nut vertically into the slot at the bottom of the Y Gantry.

    M3 hex nut location on the Y Gantry

  4. Loosely thread an M3x16mm machine screw into the nut installed in the previous step until you can see the tip of the screw poking through the nut.

    Installing an M3 screw into the M3 nut on the Y Gantry

  5. Insert an M3 nut vertically into the slot indicated below on a Y Gantry Support.

    M3 hex nut location on the Y Gantry Support

  6. Loosely thread an M3x16mm machine screw into the nut installed in the previous step until you can see the tip of the screw poking through the nut.

    Installing an M3 screw into the M3 nut on the Y Gantry Support

  7. Insert two M5x40mm machine screws, one into each of the top roller positions in the Y Gantry.

    Two long M5x40mm inserted into the Y Gantry

  8. Slide a V-Slot roller one onto each of the two M5x40mm machine screws. Note: you may need to align one or both of the interior washers inside the rollers, as they can shift in shipping and block the hole for the screw. Simply push the washers back into place with a screwdriver tip.

    Two v-slot rollers slid onto the screws that will connect the Y Gantry to the Y Gantry Support

  9. Insert two M5 nuts into the back side of Y Gantry Support and then place the assembly onto the two M5x40mm machine screws from the last step. Loosely screw them in so they’re attached; we’ll tighten them in a later step.

  10. Repeat steps 12-20 for the second Y Gantry and Y Gantry Support.

Final Assembly

QtyPart
1Aluminum extrusion
2M5 T-slot nut
2M5x10 machine screw
8M5x25 machine screw
1FDM-0010 (Y Gantry Umbilical Mount)
1Limit switch PCB
2M3x8 machine screw
1FDM-0013 (X Idler Mount) with belt tensioner
  1. Place a Y gantry assembly on each end of a v-slot extrusion. Don’t worry about pushing it all the way into the print; we’ll be adjusting it in a later step.

    Inserting the v-slot extrusion into the Y Gantry
    The v-slot extrusion attached to both Y Gantries

  2. Drop in and position a T slot nut under the machine screw hole on the top of each gantry side and loosely thread a M5x10mm machine screw into each of the nuts. Again, we’ll adjust this later.

    one screw and T slot nut securing a Y gantry to the v-slot extrusion

  3. Using four M5x25mm machine screws, attach the X idler assembly to the right side gantry body. Note that orientation does matter here: the head of the machine screw that holds the idler should be visible when looking down at the top of the machine, and the chamfers on the X Idler Mount line up with the ones on the Y Gantry.

    4 screws attaching the X Idler Mount to the Y Gantry
    Proper orientation of the X Idler Mount on the Y Gantry, with the screws pointing downwards.

  4. Using four M5x25mm machine screws, attach the X Motor Mount and Y Gantry Umbilical Mount to the left side gantry assembly. The motor should be on top with the pulley facing downwards. The Gantry Umbilical Mount should be at the back, on the same side as the motor’s cable connector.

    4 screws attaching the X Motor Mount and Gantry Umbilical Mount
    Detail view of the two screws holding in the Gantry Umbilical Mount

  5. Finally, mount the X axis limit switch to the Y Gantry. Secure it in place using two M3x8mm screws as shown in the image below. These screws tap directly into the print.

    Two screws holding in the X axis limit switch

Next steps

Continue to assembling the X Gantry.

1.7 - X Gantry Assembly

Assembling the X gantry

Alright, the last major bit of assembly! Once this is done, the majority of the machine’s structure is built.

X Gantry Preparation

QtyPart
1FDM-0011 (X Gantry Front)
1FDM-0012 (X Gantry Back)
4M5 Hex Nut
12M3 Hex Nut
1M5 Nylock Hex Nut
  1. Insert four M5 Hex Nuts into the slots on the X Gantry Back as shown below.

    four M5 hex nut locations

  2. Ensure each hex nut is fully seated into their slot. It may be helpful to pull the hex nuts fully into location by screwing a M5x10mm machine screw into them from the opposite side of the X Gantry Back. Afterwards, remove the screw.

  3. Insert four M3 Hex Nuts, two vertically and two horizontally into the slots on X Gantry Back as indicated below.

    four M3 hex nut locations, two vertical and two horizontal

  4. Insert six M3 Hex Nuts into the slots on the X Gantry Front as shown below.

    Six hex nut locations on the front of the X Gantry Front

  5. Insert two more M3 nuts into the vertical slots on the other side of the X Gantry Front.

    Two vertical hex nut locations on hte X Gantry Front

  6. Pull the hex nuts fully into location by screwing a M3x10mm machine screw into them from the opposite side of the X Gantry Front. Then unscrew the M3x10mm machine screw.

  7. Insert a M5 Nylock Hex Nut into the slot at the bottom of the X Gantry Front.

    Inserting one Nylock hex nut at the bottom of the X Gantry Front

Attaching X Gantry Front and Back

QtyPart
2M5x40 machine screw
2FDM-0009 (Roller spacer)
2V-slot roller wheel
2M5 Hex Nut
  1. Insert two M5x40mm machine screws, one into each of the top two holes on the X Gantry Front.

    M5x40 screws inserted into the X Gantry Front

  2. Slide a Roller Spacer onto each of the two machine screws.

    Roller Spacers added to the stack with the X Gantry Front

  3. Slide a V-slot roller onto each of the two machine screws. Note: you may need to align one or both of the interior washers inside the rollers, as they can shift in shipping and block the hole for the screw. Simply push the washers back into place with a screwdriver tip.

    V-slot rollers added to the stack
    Side view of the stack with the V-slot rollers, roller spacer, and X Gantry Front

  4. Place the X Gantry Back onto the two machine screws.

    X Gantry Back added to the stack

  5. Install two M5 Hex Nuts, one into each of the slots on the X Gantry Back. Tighten the nuts on the machine screws so that the two sides are snug against the V-slot rollers.

    X Gantry Back secured with two M5 Hex Nuts

Preparing for the Z Gantry

QtyPart
2100mm Linear Rail
6M3x14 machine screw
1NEMA17 stepper motor
6M3x8 machine screw
1Limit switch PCB
1GT2 Pulley Idler
1M5x25 machine screw
  1. Carefully and safely remove the stoppers holding the gantry onto the linear rail. Depending on your kit, these could be metal clips or rubber stoppers inserted through the rail. Take care not to accidentally slide the bearings off of the linear rails after removing the stoppers. The bearings will be properly blocked from being removed after the linear rails are attached to the X Gantry Front and the Z-axis limit switch is installed.

  2. Place the two linear rails onto the front of the X Gantry Front and line up each one with the arrays of three holes on the left and right side. Place three M3x14mm machine screws into each of the rails (the holes on the ends first, then hole one in the middle) and tighten down.

    Securing the Z-axis linear rails

  3. Place the NEMA 17 motor so the shaft runs through the X Gantry Front and emerges on the same side as the linear rails. Make sure the motor’s connector is pointing towards the umbilical guide as shown below. Use using four M3x8mm machine screws to fasten the NEMA17 motor to the X Gantry Front.

    Screw in the Z-axis motor
    Highlighting the correct direction for the Z-axis motor connector: pointing towards the umbilical.

  4. Attach the limit switch PCB with two M3x8mm screws at the top right of the X Gantry Front.

    Securing the Z-axis limit switch

  5. Slide a GT2 idler onto a M5x25mm machine screw. Thread that assembly through X Gantry Front and tighten on the Nyloc Hex Nut on the back side. Ensure that the fit is tight and there’s no wiggle in the idler, but also make sure that it can spin freely and isn’t seizing from over-tightening.

    Z-axis idler assembly

Z Gantry Assembly

QtyPart
1FDM-0040 (Left Z Gantry Backplate)
1FDM-0041 (Right Z Gantry Backplate)
1FDM-0017 (Left Z Gantry)
1FDM-0039 (Right Z Gantry)
1GT2 Timing Belt
8M3x8 machine screw
1GT2 Pulley (with grub screws)

Now it’s time to mount the Z gantries. Each gantry comes in two parts. The first is a back plate that sits against the linear rail carriage, and connects to the timing belt, called Left Z Gantry Backplate and Right Z Gantry Backplate. These will always be on your machine. Even when you swap toolheads, these will stay attached to the linear rail.

  1. First, we need to get the GT2 timing belt inserted into the back plates at the right spacing. Insert the end of your GT2 belt halfway along the slot in the Right Z Gantry Backplate. Then slide the belt into the slot in the Left Z Gantry Backplate with 108mm of belt between them (when measuring from the edges of the prints). Your setup should look like the image below:

  2. Now, cut the loose end of the belt such that there is 114mm remaining when measured from the edge of the print. Insert this loose end into the other backplate so that there are no empty teeth.

  1. Slide the GT2 Pulley onto the Z axis motor’s shaft, with the set screws closer to the motor body. Don’t tighten the set screws yet. Place backplate and belt assembly on linear rails, threading the belt through the pulley on the stepper motor. Ensure that the back plates are oriented as shown in the image below.
  1. Insert M5x40mm bolt with GT2 idler into bottom of plate, and thread the belt around it. Secure backplates temporarily with two M3x8mm bolts as shown below.
  1. Slide the Z motor up in its hardware slots and check for belt tension. If you’re able to get the belt completely taut, great! If not, remove a loose end of the belt, snip off a belt rib from one side, reinsert, and try again. As long as you are able to get the belt taught from the movement of the stepper motor, you’re good to move on.

  2. While pulling upward on the Z stepper motor so that the belt is tesioned, tighten the four M3 bolts holding it to the X gantry.

  1. Finally, attach the left and right Z gantries to the back plates using M3x8mm bolts as shown below.

Mounting the Z-axis tools

QtyPart
1NEMA11 hollow shaft stepper motor
4M2.5x8 machine screw
1CP40 nozzle holder
1Pneumatic Couple
4M5x10 machine screw
2FDM-0027 (Belt Clamp)
  1. Now that our Z gantries are all tightened and moving freely, we can mount our final axis: rotation! Take your NEMA11 hollow shaft stepper motor and place it in the left Z gantry. Secure it in place with four M2.5x8mm screws. Make sure the wire port is facing outwards as shown below.

  2. Now we’ll mount a few bits of hardware to the hollow shaft motor. Screw the CP40 nozzle holder into the bottom side of the motor, and screw the press-fit pneumatic coupler into the top side.

  3. Use four M5x10mm screws to loosely attach two of your Belt Clamps onto the X Gantry Back.

Next steps

Continue to mounting the X Gantry to the Y Gantry.

1.8 - Mounting the X Gantry to the Y Gantry

Attaching the X gantry to the Y gantry

Now that we have both gantries assembled, it’s time to put them together.

X Gantry Tensioner Bars

QtyPart
2V-slot roller wheel
2FDM-0043 (X Gantry Tension Bar)
2M5x40 machine screw
2M5 Hex Nut
4M3x30 machine screw
  1. Fit the X gantry on top of the Y gantry rail. Make sure the X motor is on the left side with the front of the X gantry facing you.

    Proper orientation of the newly attached X-axis gantry

  2. Prepare two V-slot rollers. You may need to align one or both of the interior washers inside the rollers, as they can shift in shipping and block the hole for the screw. Simply push the washers back into place with a screwdriver tip.

  3. With the top roller bolts still loose, slide the two X Gantry Tension Bars onto the bottom of the X Gantry prints. Slide two rollers in between them, ensuring that the holes in them line up with the holes in the X Gantry Tension Bars.

    Sliding on the X Gantry Tensioner Bars
    Slotting two V-Slot Rollers in-between the Tensioner Bars

  4. Now we can secure the stack in place using two M5x40mm bolts. Pass them through the holes, and loosely tighten them into two M5 nuts in the slots on the X Gantry Back. Don’t tighten all the way yet; we still have some adjustment to do first.

    Securing the tensioner bars with M5 screws
    Loosely threading the M5 screws into M5 nuts to hold the Tensioner Bars on.
    Cutaway view of the new M5 screws going through the tensioner bars and V-Slot rollers and ending in the M5 nuts.

  5. Tighten the top roller bolts now that everything is in its place.

    Tightening the two top roller sandwiches

  6. Now we add tension screws. These are what hold the X Gantry Tension Bars in the correct position to have proper tension along the rail. Take four M3x30mm screws and pass them through the holes in the X Gantry Tension Bars, and thread into the M3 nuts inserted into the X Gantry prints, as shown below. Make sure each screw is tightened the same amount, and that the X gantry can still move freely, but doesn’t have any wiggle on the rail.

    Installing four M3 screws to tension the X Tension Bars
    Installing four M3 screws to tension the X Tension Bars side view

  7. Tighten the M5x40mm bolts that run through the bottom set of rollers (installed in the previously) so that their position is locked.

    Securing the tensioner bars with M5 screws

Camera and Ring Light

QtyPart
1USB Camera (Top)
1FDM-0015 (Top Light Mount)
1FDM-0014 (Top Camera Mount)
1Top Ring Light PCB
4M2.5x20 machine screw
2M3x14 machine screw
1Super Lube
  1. Before mounting the camera, you’ll need to make sure you can rotate the lens and adjust the camera’s focus. First carefully remove the set screw on the side of the lens assembly that is holding the lens in place. Next, unscrew the lens from the camera. You might need a light grip with pliers (preferably with soft grips) to get it to turn. With the lens removed, use a cotton swab to apply a very small amount of Super Lube to the lens threads. Be careful not to get any of the lubricant inside or on the lens. Wipe off any excess with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth. If necessary, you can clean the lens itself using a microfiber cloth. Screw the lens back into the camera and work the lubricant into the threads. Save the lubricant as you’ll use it again later. Finally, add the set screw back to the side of the lens assembly. Tighten the set screw just enough to keep the lens in place but not so much that it prevents you from adjusting the lens with a little force, as you’ll need to adjust the lens after the camera is mounted.

  2. Place the ring light facing downwards into the Top Light Mount. The LEDs will shine down, and the white plastic wire connector will face upwards.

    Installing the Top Light into the Top Light Mount
    Installing the Top Light into the Top Light Mount side view

  3. Place the Top Camera Mount on top of the Top Light Mount ensuring that the tab from the Top Light Mount fits onto the side opposite the arms on the Top Camera Mount. These two prints will pinch the top ring light in place.

    Attaching the Top Light Mount to the Top Camera Mount

  4. Install the Top Camera into the Top Camera Mount. Make sure the connector on the back side of the camera is between the two arms of the Top Camera Mount.

    Inserting the Top Camera into the Top Camera Mount
    Correct location of the wire connector for the Top Camera

  5. Secure the whole stack in place with four M2.5x20mm screws in the outer four holes (not the ones with a metal circle around them). Tighten them down so that all parts are tightly held together, but don’t over-torque; these screws are threading into the plastic of the Top Light Mount.

    Screwing in the Top Camera

  6. Use two M3x14mm screws to mount the Top Camera and Light subassembly onto the back of the X Gantry Back.

    Attaching the Top Camera assembly

Next steps

Continue to mounting the Y Gantry to the Frame.

1.9 - Mounting the Y Gantry to the Frame

Mounting the Y Gantry subassembly to the frame of the machine

Now the whole XY gantry assembly gets dropped onto the frame!

QtyPart
2M5x40 machine screw
4FDM-0009 (Roller spacer)
2V-slot roller wheel
2M5 Hex Nut
4M5 T-slot nuts
1Staging Plate
  1. Loosen the four M5x40mm screws holding the two halves of the Y Gantries together.

    Loosening the Y Gantries step 1

  2. Loosen the two M5x10mm screws that hold the Y Gantries to the X extrusion. Double-check that none of the captive nuts in either of the Y Gantries have fallen out, since they’ll be difficult to reinsert after the next step.

    Loosening the Y Gantries step 2

  3. Slot the entire XY gantry assembly onto the top extrusions of the frame. Make sure the X motor is on the left of the machine.

    Slotting the Y-axis assembly onto the main Lumen frame
    Highlighting that the X axis motor should be on the left side of the frame when mounted correctly.

  4. Re-tighten the four M5x40mm screws holding the two halves of the Y Gantries together.

    Re-tightening the Y Gantries

  5. We’ll add an additional roller to each Y Gantry assembly below the extrusions of the frame. Push a M5x40mm machine screw through the Y Gantry, then add on a Roller Spacer, a V-Slot roller, and then another Roller Spacer. Secure the assembly in place with an M5 nut slotting into the Y Gantry Support and threading into the screw. Note: you may need to align one or both of the interior washers inside the rollers, as they can shift in shipping and block the hole for the screw. Simply push the washers back into place with a screwdriver tip.

    The fully assembled lower roller assembly that holds the Y gantry in place. This should be done on both sides of the X axis

  6. Now roll the entire Gantry Assembly to the very front of the machine. Adjust the fit of the X axis extrusion inside the Y Gantries so that the top rollers fit perfectly into the v-slot. After you adjust them, tighten both M5x10mm screws that hold the Y Gantries to the X axis extrusion.

    Align the rollers with the groove in the extrusion
    Tighten the top screw when the rollers are set

  7. Now we need to make sure this spacing doesn’t just work for the front of the machine, but for the entire length of it as well. Loosen the machine screws connecting the back rail to the left and right side. While applying light pressure down on the Y gantry, roll it to the back of the machine. You might find that you need to expand or contract the back legs to have the rollers ride perfectly in the v-slot. Once you have the correct spacing, tighten the bolts mounting the back rail. This locks in the Y gantry extrusion spacing for the back of the machine as well. We also recommend measuring the spacing between the rails in the front and back of the machine, and adjusting until they’re the same.

    Loosen the screws holding on the back rail
    Re-tighten the screws holding on the back rail after checking that the spacing is correct for the rollers

  8. Use four Slot Nuts and four M5x8mm screws to loosely secure the Staging Plate to the frame. If you have the fiberglass PCB staging plate, the coordinate A1 is in the front left of the machine.

    Loosely attach the Staging Plate

  9. If you purchased additional staging plates, loosely secure them next to your first staging plate with four Slot Nuts and four M5x8mm screws.

    Loosely attach the additional Staging Plate(s)

  10. Adjust the Staging Plate so that it is exactly 95mm away from the Front Left Leg and Front Right Leg, then tighten it into place. This will be important for using the OpenPnP configuration provided for the machine. See below for how to measure the distance properly.

    Measuring the distance between the Staging Plate and the front legs

  11. Tighten the four M3x16mm screws, two on either Y Gantry assembly, so that the lower rollers are snug against the extrusion and ensure that the top rollers run well in their slots, too. Make sure that there’s no play or wiggle in the fit, but don’t over-tighten to the point of increasing resistance to rolling. The gantry should move easily, but not loosely.

    Tighten the rollers in place on the extrusion

  12. Lastly, tighten the bolts that run through the bottom rollers to lock in the tension setting.

Next steps

Continue to attaching the belts.

1.10 - Attaching Belts

Attaching and tensioning belts for the X and Y gantries

With a complete frame assembled, we can now route the GT2 timing belt that makes everything move!

QtyPart
1GT2 Timing Belt
4FDM-0027 (Belt Clamp)
8M5x10 machine screw
  1. We’ll start with the Y axis. If you’d like to precut your belt instead of routing the entirety of it through the machine, you can cut two 1400mm lengths for the Y axis motors. To help guide the belt through the openings in the prints, bend it backwards as shown below so that the belt has a curve to it.

    Bending the belt 1
    Bending the belt 2

  2. Take your length of GT2 belt and stick it inside the extrusion (smooth side facing outward), behind the Y Gantry as shown below. Getting the belt to come out of the slot in the Y axis gantry can be difficult. Try using a small allen wrench with a ball tip to guide the belt out of the hole. Or, attach a twist tie to the end of the belt and guide that out the hole instead. When you’re done, the belt should be coming out of the hole on the side closest to the front of the machine.

    Overview of attaching the belt to the right Y axis
    Preparing to feed the GT2 belt onto one side of the Y axis Gantry
    Feeding the GT2 belt onto one side of the Y axis Gantry
    Pulling the GT2 belt through one side of the Y axis Gantry

  3. Using 4 M5x10mm machine screws and 2 Belt Clamps on the Y Gantry, slide the belt underneath the Belt Clamps and tighten them down with the GT2 belt flush with the edge of the Y Gantry.

  4. Now, take the other end of your belt and feed it through the Front Right Leg. Guide it through and around the idler in the Belt Tension Arm, and feed it back through the other side of the Front Right Leg as shown below.

    Looping the belt around one of the Y axis idlers
    Belt fully looped around and exiting back down the aluminum extrusion

  5. Continue to feed your belt along the inner side of the aluminum extrusion. Pass behind the Y Gantry Support—between it and the aluminum extrusion.

  6. Feed the belt through the inner side of the Back Right Leg. Then loop the belt around the GT2 pulley on the stepper motor and feed it through the outer side of the Back Right Leg.

    Looping the belt around one of the Y axis motors

  7. Run the belt along the outer side of the aluminum extrusion. Take the end and feed it through the other opening of the Y gantry, like we did in step 1. Feed the end between the Y gantry and the Belt Clamps. Make sure the belt tensioner on the front leg is completely unscrewed, meaning it’s angled as close to the leg as it can be. This will give us the most possible stroke to tension the belt in the next step.

  8. Pull on the belt with one hand, while holding the Y gantry steady with the other. Getting it generally taught is preferable, but don’t worry about getting it perfect; we’ll tension it correctly next. Push down on the belt clamp to hold the belt in place, and tighten the two screws to clamp it down. Cut the belt with at least 20mm remaining out the back side of the Y gantry.

  9. Now we can tension the belt. Slowly tighten in the M3 screw on the belt tensioner to increase the belt tension. Pulling back on the belt tensioner arm should be difficult, but possible. A tug should result in only a 2mm deflection.

  10. Perform the same steps on the left side Y axis.

    Overview of attaching the belt to the left Y axis

  11. We’re going to do the exact same operation for the X axis, but with one small thing to keep in mind: when looking at the back of the machine, start by clamping the belt on the right side of the X gantry (the side closest to the motor). This way, the excess belt will be sticking out of the X gantry on the side opposite of the limit switch, and prevent a problem with homing. You can precut a 1500mm strip of belt for the X axis or just use the rest of your belt and trim the excess.

    Overview of attaching the belt to the X axis

Next steps

Continue to populating the staging plate.

1.11 - Populating the Staging Plate

Mounting components to the staging plate

We now have the main structure of the machine assembled! Now we’ll mount some components to the bottom of the staging plate.

Overview

Refer to the images below for referencing where to mount parts on the staging plate.

Soldering Pump

QtyPart
1Vacuum Pump
1Vacuum Pump Wire (Labeled “P1”)
2Heatshrink (small)

Some LumenPnP kits shipped with a pump that had its connector pre-soldered to it. If your pump is not pre-soldered, follow along here to prepare your pump.

  1. Gather your Pump, the pump wire (labeled “P1”), and two lengths of heatshrink.

    the necessary components to prepare the pump

  2. Slip the heatshrink over the two exposed leads of the wire.

    Heatshrink slipped over the exposed leads of the pump wire

  3. Wrap the red wire around the left lead as shown in the image below. Wrap the black wire around the right lead.

    Red wire wrapped around the left lead, black wire warped around the right lead

  4. Solder both wires to the pump leads. The polarity does not matter.

    Wire soldered to the pump

  5. Slip the heat shrink over the solder joints and motor lead. Use a hot air gun, lighter, or other heat source to shrink the heatshrink.

    hot air gun.JPG
    finished product

Pump mount

QtyPart
1FDM-0025 (Pump Mount)
4M3 Hex Nuts
2Rubber Band
1Vacuum Pump
2M3x10 machine screw

The first thing we’ll mount to the staging plate is the Pump Mount. This print suspends the pump using two rubber bands to ensure none of the vibration of the pump is transferred into the frame.

  1. Start by press-fitting M3 nuts into the side recesses in the Pump Mount.

    Two Nut locations on the Pump Mount

  2. Now we’ll mount the pump in the Pump Mount using a couple rubber bands. Start by grabbing the rubber band with both hands, giving it a half twist, and folding it over on itself, making two loops.

  3. Now stretch each rubber band over each pair of pegs on the Pump Mount. Guide the pump between each pair of bands so that it’s suspended in the Pump Mount.

  4. Mount the Pump Mount to the staging plate using two M3 x 10mm screws in the location shown below, F31 and F33.

    Mounting position for the Pump
    The Pump assembly mounted on the staging plate

Valve mount

QtyPart
1FDM-0042 (Valve Mount)
1Blowoff Valve
4M3 Hex Nut
6M3x8 machine screw

Now we’ll attach the Valve Mount to the staging plate.

  1. Press fit four M3 nuts into the recesses in the Valve Mount.

    four nut locations in the Valve Mount

  2. Use two M3x8mm screws to attach the valve to the Valve Mount as shown below.

    attaching the valve to the valve mount with two screws

  3. Use four M3x8mm screws to mount the Valve Mount to the staging plate in the location shown: E23, E25, G23, G25.

    attaching the valve to the staging plate

Pneumatic Y splitter mount

QtyPart
1M3x30 machine screw
1M3 Hex nut
1Y Splitter
  1. Use an M3x30mm screw and an M3 nut to mount the pneumatic Y splitter to the staging plate as shown: B12.
    Attaching the Y Splitter to the Staging Plate

Bottom camera mount

QtyPart
1FDM-0019 (Up Light Mount)
1FDM-0020 (Up Camera Mount)
1Up Ring Light PCB
1USB Camera (Bottom)
4M3x30 machine screw
4M3 Hex Nut
4M2.5x8 machine screw
1Super Lube
  1. Slide the Up Ring Light into the Up Light Mount. The cable connector and LEDs should be facing the printed part, away from the camera in this photo.

    Assembling the Up Ring Light stack 1
    Assembling the Up Right Light stack 2

  2. Stack the Up Camera Mount Up Light Mount

    Assembling the Up Camera stack 3

  3. Just as with the top camera, you need to make sure you can rotate the camera’s lens to adjust its focus. First carefully remove the set screw on the side of the lens assembly that is holding the lens in place. Next, unscrew the lens from the camera. You might need a light grip with pliers (preferably with soft grips) to get it to turn. With the lens removed, use a cotton swab to apply a very small amount of Super Lube to the lens threads. Be careful not to get any of the lubricant inside or on the lens. Wipe off any excess with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth. If necessary, you can clean the lens itself using a microfiber cloth. Screw the lens back into the camera and work the lubricant into the threads. Save the lubricant as you’ll use it again later. Finally, add the set screw back to the side of the lens assembly. Tighten the set screw just enough to keep the lens in place but not so much that it prevents you from adjusting the lens with a little force, as you’ll need to adjust the lens after the camera is mounted.

  4. Stack the Up Camera in the Up Camera Mount. The cable connector for the camera should be as close to the cable connector for the Up Ring Light as possible, as pictured below.

    Final assembly of the Up Camera and Up Ring Light, with proper cable orientation
    Assembling the Up Camera stack 4

  5. Use four M2.5x8mm screws to mount the camera into the Up Camera Mount by using the inner set of four holes and tapping directly into the plastic.

    Assembling the Up Camera stack 5

  6. If you have the fiberglass PCB staging plate, you’ll need to install a support foot to keep the staging plate sturdy. Stack the Foot Mount on top of the assembly. If you have the metal staging plate, you can skip this step.

    Assembling the Up Camera stack 6

  7. If you have the fiberglass PCB staging plate, push four M3 nuts into the recesses in the Foot Mount.

    Assembling the Up Camera stack 7

  8. Use four M3x30mm screws and four M3 nuts mount the whole assembly to the staging plate: D18, B20, D20, F22 (if you have the fiberglass staging plate, these will be the nuts you installed in the previous step). The cable connector for the Up Ring Light should be facing down and to the left, away from the valve.

    Assembling the Up Camera stack finished with metal staging plate
    Assembling the Up Camera stack 8

  9. Ensure that your bottom camera matches the orientation to the image below.

    Up Camera Location on the staging plate
    Final assembly of the Up Camera and Up Ring Light, with proper cable orientation

  10. If you have the fiberglass PCB staging plate, note that this is where the foot will get installed when your LumenPnP is ready.

    Assembling the Up Camera stack 9

Nozzle Holder

QtyPart
1FDM-0024 (Nozzle Holder)
3M3 Hex Nut
3M3x8 machine screw
  1. Slide three M3 nuts into the slots in the back of the Nozzle Holder.

    Nuts inserted into the nozzle holder

  2. Using three M3x10mm machine screws, tighten the Nozzle Holder on top of the staging plate as shown: B8, D8, F8. Note: we will install the datum board later, ignore it in the photo below.

    Nozzle Holder location on the staging plate

Next steps

Continue to installing the motherboard.

2 - Motherboard Installation

Installing the LumenPnP motherboard

This section covers installing the motherboard, including soldering the through-hole components, mounting it to the machine, and updating the firmware.

2.1 - Install THT Components

Instructions about how to install the THT components into a LumenPnP Motherboard

There are five types of connectors that need to be soldered into your motherboard. We’ll go over each one, and how to solder them in place.

Screw Terminal

In your connector bag you’ll find a screw terminal connector. This provides power to the machine, and goes into the J12 footprint on the upper-right corner of the board. Ensure that the openings that accept the power cables are facing outwards.

IDC Connectors

The IDC connectors are the larger, black connectors in your connector bag. There are only two sizes, a 2x3 for feeder communication, and three 2x6 for the auxillary ports. Be sure to solder them the correct orientation. The slot on the connector should match up with the silkscreen.

JST XH Connectors

The bulk of the connectors on the board are JST XH connectors. These come in two, three, and four pin variations. The two pin connectors are for the mosfets, the three pin connectors are for the servos, limit switches, and ring lights, and the four pin connectors are for the stepper motors.

USB A Connectors

There are three USB A connectors that need to be soldered into the board as well. Two of these are for the webcams, and the third is for future functionality. We recommend soldering the large structural tabs in place first, then soldering the four data pins afterward.

Stepper Motor Driver Headers

The last connectors that need to be soldered into the board are the 1x8 Dupont 0.1" headers for the stepper motor drivers. Two connectors need to be soldered for each driver. We recommend soldering a single pin in place first while getting the connector to stay flat, then do the rest of the pins after the orientation is solidified. Orientation does not matter for these connectors.

Next steps

Continue to mounting the motherboard.

2.2 - Mounting the Motherboard

Instructions about how to mount the motherboard on the staging plate

Mounting

QtyPart
4M3 25mm Standoff
8M3x8 machine screw

Now that we’ve got all the THT components soldered in, it’s time to mount the motherboard to the staging plate. It’s important to make sure we’re mounting the motherboard in the correct place on the staging plate so that all the cables fit and reach their respective ports correctly.

  1. Put your Lumen up on its haunches and take a look at the left side of the staging plate. We will be working with the following holes on the staging plate: A3, G3, A9, G9.

    Standoff location on the staging plate

  2. Pass four M3x10mm screws through the top side of the staging plate, and tighten them into the standoffs.

  3. Now we can mount the motherboard itself. Confirm the orientation of your motherboard so that the USB ports are facing to the left and the vacuum sensors on the bottom. Then use four M3x10mm screws to secure the motherboard to the standoffs.

Drivers

QtyPart
4Stepper motor driver PCB
4PCB Heatsink
  1. Install the four stepper motor drivers into the X, Y, Z, and Left Head slots. Note that the whale icon on the motor drivers will be right-side up and the two upward-facing pins will be facing to the left.

  2. Install the four heatsinks on the center of the motor drivers.

Power

QtyPart
1Power Supply
  1. Cut the barrel connector off the end of the power supply cable.

  2. Separate the two wires and strip off the insulation of each.

  3. Twist the stranded copper and insert the wire with the white text into the positive side of the power screw terminal on the motherboard. Insert the black wire into the other terminal, and screw both down tightly.

  4. Next, plug in your power brick. Watch for a light by the screw terminal. If you do not see a light, check to make sure you inserted the wires into the correct terminals. Also check to see if the light on the power brick is illuminated. (The color of the light may differ based on which kit you received.)

Next steps

Make sure your motherboard is running the latest firmware.

2.3 - Update the Firmware

Flash Marlin onto the motherboard.

This step is optional. Your motherboard comes with a correct build of Marlin pre-installed, but if you’d like to update the firmware or change settings, this will help you do so!

Using the Auto Build Marlin VSCode Extension

  1. Download the latest Marlin firmware and unzip it.

  2. Install VSCode and its PlatformIO extension.

  3. Open Marlin firmware’s folder on VSCode.

  4. Grab Marlin configuration files (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) and replace the files in the Marlin/Marlin folder with those new ones.

  5. Install the Auto Build Marlin plugin using this Marlin Documentation page, or download it directly from the Visual Studio Marketplace.

  6. Try to build Marlin using the build button with the hammer icon as shown below:

    Marlin auto-build UI

  7. If this is successful, attach the LumenPnP Mobo to your computer with the USB cable. If it isn’t, this might help:

    • Check the error messages for configuration errors and fix them, or replace it with the default config
    • If this fails, check that your config file version is the same as your Marlin version (e.g. a bugfix-2.0.x config file won’t work in a bugfix-2.1.x)
    • When in doubt, re-downlaod Marlin and the configuration files from the links above
  8. Boot your motherboard into DFU Mode

    1. Press and hold the BOOT button
    2. Press the Reset button and hold for 10 seconds
    3. Release the Reset button and wait for 10 seconds
    4. Release the BOOT button
      BOOT and RESET buttons
  1. Flash the Motherboard using dfu-util by running the command dfu-util -d 0x0483:0xdf11 -s 0x08000000:leave -a 0 -D ./.pio/build/Opulo_Lumen_REV3/firmware.bin in the integrated terminal in the root of the repository.
    integrated terminal in VSCode with DFU-Util command
  1. Wait for the process to finish.

  2. The machine should show up as a COM/Serial Port on your PC now, and you should be able to access it via OpenPNP. If it doesn’t, press the Reset button on the board, or power-cycle the machine after the flashing is completed.

This is how you can check whether your machine is connected properly:

  • Windows:
    STM32 shows up as a COM/Serial Port
  • Mac/Linux:
    STM32 shows up on lsusb

Manually Configuring PlatformIO (for flashing via PIO)

  1. Download the latest Marlin firmware and unzip it.

  2. Install VSCode and its PlatformIO extension

  3. Open Marlin firmware’s folder on VSCode

  4. Grab Marlin configuration files (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) and replace the files in the Marlin/Marlin folder with those new ones.

  5. Edit the platformio.ini file to indicate which board you’re uploading to. Update default_envs to read Index_Mobo_Rev03.

    BOOT and RESET buttons

  6. Attach the LumenPnP Mobo to your computer with the USB cable.

  7. Boot your motherboard into DFU Mode

    1. Press and hold the BOOT button
    2. Press the Reset button and hold for 10 seconds
    3. Release the Reset button and wait for 10 seconds
    4. Release the BOOT button
      BOOT and RESET buttons
  1. Upload firmware to the board via PlatformIO:

    Upload firmware via PIO

  2. Wait for the process to finish:

    PIO firmware upload done

  3. Press Reset on the board, or power-cycle the machine after the flashing is completed. Now it should show up as a COM/Serial Port on your PC:

  • Windows:
    STM32 shows up as a COM/Serial Port
  • Mac/Linux:
    STM32 shows up on lsusb

Flashing Factory Firmware

If you’ve put new firmware on your motherboard, but just want to get back to the firmware that your machine was flashed with, check the release for your build number and download the .bin firmware file attached to it. Put your board into DFU mode as described above, connect to your computer, and flash the binary to the board using the following command:

`dfu-util -d 0x0483:0xdf11 -s 0x08000000:leave -a 0 -D ~/path/to/firmware.bin`

Once flashing is completed, the machine should automatically exit DFU mode, and be accessible to OpenPNP again. For more information see Step 9 of the update firmware guide.

Troubleshooting

If you aren’t able to upload, you can check to see if your motherboard is booting into DFU mode correctly:

  • Windows:

    STM32 in DFU mode in Device Manager

  • Mac/Linux:

    STM32 in DFU mode in lsusb

Also, reference the Marlin instructions for uploading. Be sure to use bugfix-2.1.x if uploading using these instructions.

This method requires an ST-Link (V2 Clone or equivalent). Additionally you need the software STM32CubeProgrammer by ST. This method is a bit more involved and takes longer than just using the DFU mode.

  1. Compile (build) the project normally with PIO

  2. This generates a .bin-file that contains the firmware

  3. Connect your board to your ST-Link through the SWD header on board

  4. Start STM32CubeProgrammer

  5. Connect to the MCU:

    Connecting to the STM programmer

  6. Click on Open file and navigate to the firmware.bin file in PROJECT_DIRECTORY/.pio/build/STM32F407VE_black

    Opening the compiled firmware file

  7. Click on Download. This will flash the SMT32F4 with the provided firmware

    Downloading (flashing) the firmware

  8. Done! Now you just have to disconnect the ST-Link and press the reset button on the board.

Next steps

Continue to wiring and pneumatics.

3 - Wiring and Pneumatics

Wiring up motors, sensors, and cameras and installing pneumatic tubing.

Summary

This section is all about plugging stuff in! This is where we’ll route and plug in all the cables, along with all the pneumatic tubing. We’ll also be making a couple umbilical harnesses, so break out that heat gun!

3.1 - Wiring the Y Motors

Routing and connecting the Y motor cables
QtyPart
1Y1 Cable Harness (Labeled Y1)
1Y2 Cable Harness (Labeled Y2)
4Zip Tie
4FDM-0016 (Cable Clip)
3FDM-0023 (Cable Clamp)
3M3x14 machine screw
3M3 Hex Nut

The left and right Y motors are connected to the motherboard using the cable harnesses Y1 and Y2, respectively. Grab these from your bundle of cables.

  1. Start by plugging in the unlabeled end of the cables into the Y motors. Y1 goes to the left Y motor, and Y2 goes to the right Y motor.

    Connecting the cable to the left Y motor
    Connecting the cable to the right Y motor

  2. Use four zip ties to secure the wires in place using the channels in the back legs as shown below.

  3. Next, put your LumenPnP up on its haunches, and route the cables along the inside groove of the extrusion extrusions running towards the front of the machine. Use Cable Clips to hold the cables in place along the extrusions.

  4. Use three Cable Clamps, three M3x14mm bolts, and three M3 nuts to hold the right side cable on the staging plate and route it towards the motherboard neatly.

  5. Route the cables underneath the motherboard for now; we’ll plug them in in a later step.

Next steps

Continue to sheathing the umbilicals.

3.2 - Sheathing the Umbilicals

Creating the two umbilical cables in the machine

Now we’ll assemble the two umbilical cables in the machine. The one connecting from the front left leg to the left side of the Y gantry is the Y gantry umbilical, and the one connecting from the front left leg to the X gantry is the X gantry umbilical.

Y Gantry Umbilical

This cable bundle will contain the following:

QtyPart
1X axis limit switch cable (XL)
1X axis motor cable (XM)
2Heatshrink tubing (large)
1150 mm (45 in)Woven sheathing
  1. To begin, we’ll get these two cables laid out at the correct spacing. XL and XM should be perfectly aligned on the label side, no offset.

  2. Measure out 1150mm of sheathing and cut it from the rest of the spool.

  3. Take the piece of sheathing and expand it by compressing it. You should find that inserting the two cables at the correct offset will maintain this offset while pushing the sheathing over them. Follow the pictures below for a good method of pushing the cables through the sheathing. If it starts to fray a little bit, don’t worry! This is purely a cosmetic step; you can trim off any frayed bits and use the heatshrink to clean up the ends.

  4. Push the sheathing up until there’s equal amount of exposed black cable of the shorter cable, as shown below.

  5. With the sheathing an equal distance from the closest connector on each side, slide two pieces of heatshrink tubing over the fraying end of the sheathing, with equal amounts on the cables and on the sheathing. This is to hold the sheathing in place, keep it from fraying, and generally making it look nicer. Use a heat gun or lighter to heat the heatshrink tight onto the cable.

X Gantry Umbilical

This cable bundle will contain the following:

QtyPart
1Z axis limit switch (ZL)
1Z axis motor cable (ZM)
1Left rotation motor cable (LM)
1Top light cable (DL)
1Top camera usb cable (longer usb cable()
2Heatshrink tubing (large)
1475 mm (58 in)Woven sheathing
  1. To begin, we’ll get these five cables laid out at the correct spacing. Having these spaced correctly ensures that every cable reaches every plug with strain relief and length for movement. Use the image below to make the correct spacing.

  2. Once you have the spacing correct, use a short zip tie to hold them together at this spacing to preserve it while sheathing.

  3. Now, cut a 1475mm piece of sheathing from the remainder and expand it by compressing it. You should find that inserting the cables at the correct offset will maintain this offset while pushing the sheathing over them. If it starts to fray a little bit, don’t worry! This is purely a cosmetic step; you can trim off any frayed bits and use the heatshrink to clean up the ends.

  4. With the sheathing an equal distance from the closest connector on each side, slide two pieces of heatshrink tubing over the fraying end of the sheathing, with equal parts on the cables and on the sheathing. This is to hold the sheathing in place, keep it from fraying, and generally making it look nicer. Use a heat gun or lighter to heat the heatshrink tight onto the cable.

Next steps

Continue to routing the Y gantry umbilical.

3.3 - Routing the Y Gantry Umbilical

Connecting and securing the Y gantry umbilical cable

For this, all you’ll need is your freshly made Y gantry umbilical cable bundle, and your bag of zip ties. Note that we’ll be plugging in the unlabeled end of the cables, as the labels are meant to help identify wires on on the motherboard side.

Securing to the Y gantry

  1. To begin, plug in the four terminal connector with only three wires into the X Limit Switch on the left side of the Y Gantry.

  2. Plug in the other connector (six terminal connector with only four wires) into the X Axis Stepper Motor, also on the left side of the Y Gantry.

  3. Align the cable bundle as shown in the picture below, and secure the cable to the Y Gantry Umbilical Mount with three big zip ties.

  4. Lastly, plug in the Y axis limit switch using the YL cable.

Securing to the frame

  1. Insert the Umbilical Swivel into the Frame Umbilical Mount

    inserting the umbilical swivel into the frame umbilical mount on the left side

  2. Move the Y gantry all the way to the back of the machine until you feel it hit the limit of travel. This will ensure that you don’t fasten the cable too tightly such that it restricts the machine’s motion.

  3. Pass the loose end of the wiring bundle through one of the holes in the Umbilical Swivel

  4. Take the cable bundle and guide it along the curved recess in the Frame Umbilical Mount. Take two zip ties and loosely secure them through the zip tie guides and around the cable bundle. Do not tighten them yet, as we still need to route the X gantry cable bundle through this same pair of zip ties.

Next steps

Continue to routing the X gantry umbilical.

3.4 - Routing the X Gantry Umbilical

Connecting and securing the X gantry umbilical cable

For this, all you’ll need is your freshly made X gantry umbilical cable, and your bag of zip ties. Note that we’ll be plugging in the unlabeled end of the cables, as the labels are meant to help identify wires on on the motherboard side.

Plugging in the Cables

  1. First, plug in the four terminal connector with only three wires into the limit switch on the right side of the X gantry.

  2. Plug in the small four terminal JST connector into the down camera.

  3. Plug in the three terminal JST XH connector into the down ring light.

  4. Plug in the six terminal JST XH connector with only four wires into the Z gantry stepper motor in the center of the X gantry.

  5. Lastly, plug the last remaining cable (four terminal connector with four wires, not JST XH) into the left gantry rotation stepper motor.

Securing the Cables

  1. Align the cable bundle with the X Gantry Back as shown in the picture below, and secure it to the guide with two large zip ties.

  2. Secure the left motor cable using a small zip tie and the slot in the X Gantry Front

Securing to the Frame

  1. Move the Y gantry all the way to the back of the machine until you feel it hit the limit of travel, and do the same with the X gantry to the right of the machine. This will ensure that you don’t fasten the cable too tightly such that it restricts the machine’s motion.

  2. Then, take the cable bundle and guide it along the Umbilical Swivel. Take five large zip ties and loosely secure them through the zip tie guides on the Umbilical Swivel and around the cable bundle. Do not tighten yet, as we still need to route the pneumatic tubing through these zip ties.

  3. Now route the cable bundle through the two loose zip ties you attached in the Frame Umbilical Mount in the last step. Don’t tighten these yet; we still need to route the pneumatics.

Next steps

Continue to connecting the cables to the motherboard.

3.5 - Connecting to the Motherboard

Plugging in all the cables in the machine into the motherboard

Take your LumenPnP and flip it up onto its haunches. You should see lots of cables loosely attached to the Frame Umbilical Mount, all looking for a home. We’re about to give them one!

Plugging in

  1. We’ll first start by plugging in the Y motors you routed behind the motherboard in Wiring the Y Motors. Plug the cable labeled Y1 into the left Y motor port on the motherboard, and plug the Y2 cable into the right one.

    correct orientation of the Y axis motor cables in the motherboard

  2. Take the Bottom Camera USB cable and run it to the left across the staging plate, under the motherboard, and out the other side. Plug it into the USB port by the label Btm Cam. Store the excess cable underneath the motherboard.

  3. Now we’ll do the same thing, but with the Top Camera cable. Guide it from the top left of the staging plate, underneath the motherboard from the top side, then out the side like the other USB cable. Plug it into the USB port by the label Top Cam and Store the excess cable underneath the motherboard.

  4. The rest of the cables can be routed without being tucked underneath the motherboard. Plug in the listed labeled cables into their respective ports, shown below:

Cable LabelMobo Label
XMX
Y1Y (Left Port)
Y2Y (Right Port)
ZMZ
LML
XLX (Under Limit Switches)
ZLZ (Under Limit Switches)
YLY (Under Limit Switches)
ULBtm Cam
DLTop Cam
P1MOS1
Valve 1 (No Label)MOS2

Strain Relief

  1. Now that we have everything plugged in, it’s time to attach all these loose cables to the frame. Use some Cable Clamps with some M3x14mm screws and M3 nuts to hold down the cables across the staging plate.

  2. Take your umbilical cable bundles and loosely secure them in place on the Umbilical Guide using two big zip ties. Don’t tighten all the way yet; we still need to route the pneumatics.

Next steps

Continue to connecting the pneumatics.

3.6 - Connecting the Pneumatics

Making all the pneumatic connections in the machine

Now that we’ve got everything wired up, it’s time to get all the tubing plumbed.

QtyPart
65 mm6mm Tubing (Clear)
230 mm6mm Tubing (Clear)
235 mm4mm Tubing (Black)
Remaining4mm Tubing (Black)

Plumbing the staging plate

  1. The origin of vacuum in the machine is our vacuum pump. The off-center port is the one that provides vacuum. Start by cutting a 65mm section of the 6mm clear tubing and pushing it onto the off-center port on the vacuum pump. Push the other end onto the inline plastic port of the valve as shown below.

  1. Cut a 230mm section of the 6mm clear tubing and push it onto the right-angle plastic port of the valve, and push the other side into the single, larger port of the Y splitter.

  2. Switch to using the smaller, 4mm black tubing. Cut a 235mm length of 4mm OD tubing and push one side into a fork of the Y splitter, and route the other end underneath the motherboard and onto the VAC1 sensor port.

Plumbing the X gantry

  1. Now take the remaining length of 4mm black tubing and push it into the other fork of the Y splitter. Take the loose end, and route it underneath the motherboard, then up through all the zip ties that are holding the X umbilical in place, including those along the swivel arm.

  2. Now that the pneumatics are also routed, we can finally tighten the zip ties on the umbilical cable guide. While your machine is still back on its haunches, tighten the zip tie on the umbilical guide to secure the wires and tubing to the frame.

  3. Bring your LumenPnP down onto its four legs, and tighten the zip ties, ensuring to keep a bit of slack between sections. You can move up the umbilical swivel and tighten all the zip ties along the whole thing.

  4. With the pneumatic tubing dangling loose past the end of the swivel arm, cut any excess tubing (still allowing some slack for motor rotation) push the other end into the pneumatic coupling on the back side of the rotation stepper motor. Extra slack will allow the motor to rotate freely 180 degrees in each direction, so err on the side of leaving more than less. If the tubing falls away from the umbilical, use one or two small zip ties to secure them together.

    The bottom of the staging plate should look like the image below:

Congratulations, you’re all wired and plumbed up! It’s time to give it a test!

Next steps

Continue to testing your machine.

4 - Testing

How to test your LumenPnP after building

Now that you’ve got your LumenPnP built up, it’s time to test it!

What you’ll need

  • Computer
  • CNCjs
  • Your completed LumenPnP
  • USB-C cable

4.1 - Connect to the Computer

Instructions on how to test connecting your machine to the computer

Motherboard

  1. Connect your LumenPnP to your computer using the motherboard’s USB-C port.

  2. Manually move the Y gantry all the way to the front of the machine, and the X gantry all the way to the left.

  3. Plug in the power supply to power up the machine

  1. Now, it’s time to check and see if your computer recognizes the motherboard. We’re going to use CNCjs to check this, but feel free to use any other tool you’d like. Download CNCjs, install it, and open it.

  2. In the Connection widget, select the Marlin tab.

  3. Click the refresh button next to the Port dropdown, and click the dropdown to see if your computer found the board.

    • If you’re on Windows, the port should look like COM1 or something similar
    • Mac should look like /dev/tty.usbserial00000
    • Linux should look like /dev/tty.ACM0
  4. Keep the Baud Rate at 115200, and click the Open button. If you see boot text enter the Console widget, you’ve successfully connected to your LumenPnP!

Cameras

We also need to check connecting to the cameras. CNCjs has a webcam feature, so we’ll use it for this test too.

  1. Find the Webcam tab in the bottom left of the window

  2. Click on the module using the little slider icon

  3. Open the widget using the carrot icon

  4. Finally, click the gear and look for detected webcams in the dropdown under “Use a built-in camera or a connected webcam”. You should find “PnP Top Camera” and “PnP Bottom Camera” in the dropdown. Select each one and test out the camera feed.

Next steps

Continue to testing the motors.

4.2 - Motor Check

How to check the motors on your LumenPnP

Now that you’re connected to your LumenPnP, we’ll walk you through testing the motors and automatic homing.

Test the limit switches

Before telling the machine to move, it’s important to make sure that your limit switches are connected properly. This will make sure the machine can correctly home and prevent damage. For each of the three limit switches on the machine, tap the switch closed and watch for a red LED to light up on the limit switch PCB. If all three do, proceed with motor movement testing. If not, double check your limit switch connections.

Manually home the machine

One more step before having the machine move: manually move the the machine’s head to the lower left corner of the machine. Don’t move it completely into the limit switches, leave a few centimeters of space.

Doing this makes sure that the machine head does not crash into the build plate during the homing and motor tests.

Home each axis individually

Now you’re ready to test the machine’s motion. You’ll do this one axis at a time to limit any possible damage due to motion issues.

You’ll start with the Z axis (the nozzle head). Send the following lines of Gcode one-by-one:

G91   ; absolute positioning
G28 Z ; home the Z axis

The Z axis should move to the limit switch and then back off. If it doesn’t, make sure you have the motor cable for the Z axis connected correctly at both the motherboard and the motor.

Before continuing, move the Z axis to “safe” Z, which prevents it from colliding with the staging plate:

G0 Z 31; Move the Z axis to safe Z

Next, you’ll home the X axis. Send the following Gcode:

G28 X;

The machine’s head should move to the left, touch the limit switch, and back off. If it doesn’t, double check the X axis motor’s connection.

If the X axis homes correctly, you’re ready to home the Y axis:

G28 Y;

The machine’s head should move to the front of the machine, touch the limit switch, and back off. If it doesn’t move correctly, double check that you soldered the Y2 connector opposite of the silkscreen as noted in the motherboard section.

If the X, Y, and Z axis all moved and homed correctly, excellent! If not, reach out to us for assistance.

Nozzle rotation

Next we’ll check the left nozzle rotation stepper motor:

G0 A90

You should see your nozzle stepper rotate 90 degrees. If not, double check motor connections and make sure that the vacuum hose isn’t obstructing movement.

Next steps

Continue to testing the actuators.

4.3 - Actuator Check

How to check the actuators on your LumenPnP

Pumps

The first and most important actuator on your LumenPnP is the vacuum pump. We can check this by sending more Gcode to the machine. Send the first line to turn on the pump, and the second one to turn it back off.

M106 ;turn MOS1 on
M107 ;turn MOS1 off

Valves

We can also check the blowoff valve. This can be tested using the Gcode below. Listen for a slight click when each of the commands are run; this is the sound of the valve actuating!

M106 P1 S255   ;turn MOS2 on
M107 P1        ;turn MOS2 off

It’s worth noting that MOS3 and MOS4 can be actuated using the following commands (when something is plugged into those ports):

M106 P2 S255   ;turn MOS3 on
M107 P2        ;turn MOS3 off
M106 P3 S255   ;turn MOS4 on
M107 P3        ;turn MOS4 off

Ring Lights

Check the ring lights using the Gcode below. Note that both lights are controlled together, with the same command. You can edit the color of the lights by adjusting the R, U, and B terms in the command, and you can edit the brightness by editing the P term. For more information, check the Marlin Docs page on M150.

M150 P255 R255 U255 B255   ;turn on ring lights
M150 P0                    ;turn off ring lights

If you’d like to change the brightness that your ring lights actuate to during a job, you can edit the P value in this section of the “Machine Setup” tab in OpenPnP:

Vacuum Sensors

Now we can check the vacuum sensors. First, check the value from the first vacuum sensor before and after a vacuum is pulled to check that it’s working correctly. You should see that the values are different by about 200.

M3426 G4 C1 I1 A110   ;read vac 1 value
M106                  ;turn on the pump
M106 P1 S255          ;turn on the valve
;cover the nozzle with your finger and wait two seconds
M3426 G4 C1 I1 A110   ;read vac 1 value again
M107                  ;turn off the pump
M107 P1               ;turn off the valve

It’s also worth noting the command for reading the second vacuum sensor. Until pneumatics for a second nozzle are plumbed in, the second one will only ever read ambient pressure.

M3426 G4 C2 I1 A110  ;read vac 2 value

4.4 - Feedback

Let us know how your build went

You’re done with the build! We’d love if you let us know how it went (the form takes less than a minute). We want to make it as easy as possible to build a LumenPnP, and your feedback helps us do that.

LumenPnP Build Survey Here